It’s unfair to compare Amsterdam Fashion Week to the presentations seen in New York, Paris or Milan. However, one thing is for sure, Amsterdam Fashion Week is in a lane of its own. For many years, the focus has been on the ‘big four’ Fashion Weeks of the world, but with the Internet and social media, that’s slowly changing.
A few weeks ago marked the 25th Anniversary of the bi-annual fashion event, Amsterdam Fashion Week, as well as, the 10th anniversary of the highly anticipated competition,’Litching’ at Westergasfabriek. Litching consisted of 14 passionate student designers from the most prestigious fashion schools in Amsterdam who competed for the grand prize of €10,000 Euros and a runner up with a prize of €3,000 (which happened to be a crowd favorite). The winner of Litching was determined by the leading grand jury. This year, United Nude’s Creative Director Rem D. Koolhaas, fashion forecaster Ferry Schoew, BOSS Orange & Green’s Head of Creative Management Michael Kampe and Louis Vuitton’s menswear designer Bram van Diepen, as well as, an international jury of 150 fashion industry pros (that the author of this article was part of.)
Besides Litching, other events included an exhibition, which showcased garments from Litching alumni winners. Additionally, there was the Elite Model Look 2016 National Final Show and competition, in which two models were selected to represent Elite Model Management Netherlands.
The ideal word to describe Amsterdam Fashion Week’s collections would be ‘eclectic’. While every designer on the schedule brought something satisfyingly different to the catwalks, below, are the six collections that stood out. Read more about the six designers / labels you should know from the 25th edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week 2016:
6. Danial Aitouganov.
Danial Aitouganov showcased a distinctive presentation that comprised of tailored, oversized garments and matching accessories decorated with bright inviting colors, abstract shapes and prints and unexpected patterns with tribute to avant fashion trends, such as his spin on the oversized Vivienne Westwood-style hat. It was no secret why his collection won the trail to victory.
5. Zyanya Keizer.
A familiar name at AFW, this designer presented a feminine yet avant garde collection entitled ‘Chiral’. It was ‘all in the details’ for this part presentation, part exhibition – from the liquid-like black runway, the stunning collection of straight and flowy silhouettes along with material decorated with glass beading, which has been a signature in Keizer’s collections over the past few years.
4. Merel van Glabbeek
This collection in a single phrase, is best described when casual attire and couture collide. Van Glabbeek’s emphasis was on headwear, which comprised of beaded masks and beanies that evoked contemporary luxury as seen in the metallic beaded fringe.
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Two graduates of ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in Arnhem, Tung Trinh and Tim Becx made their Amsterdam Fashion Week debut showcasing their second collection. The androgynous collection included contemporary garments with a futuristic edge as well as classic everyday pieces designed with unexpected color combinations, materials and the labels various eye-catching oversized tote bags.
2. Les Soeurs Rouges
Fashion is nothing new to the sisters, Marlous and Dorrith de Roode, behind this five-year-old label. The duo’s grandfather, grandmother and mother have a track record in the industry. As a result, their handmade pieces are influenced by the city where they come from: The Hague, the period in which their grandmother grew up and most importantly, history. The collection showcased at AFW entitled ‘Le Parc Perdu’ did not disappoint consisting of feminine flowy dresses and silhouettes inspired by a zoo that was situated in the centre of The Hague at the end of the 19th century. Tigers, lions and cats formed the inspiration, so the sisters aimed to create the illusion of birds, butterflies and tigresses evolving into human enhancements.
1. Liselore Frowijn
This designer’s presentation matched the theme of the collection: exotic yet eclectic. The designer transformed the catwalk into an exotic botanical garden to complement the models who graced the runway with garments dominated with the use of African-style kente cloth print, denim and sequins. This collection was certainly not to be missed!